Camping in the Icelandic Highlands: Landmannalaugar & Þórsmörk Guide

Iceland's highlands are the country's wild heart — a vast, roadless interior of lava fields, rhyolite mountains, glaciers, and geothermal springs that sees a fraction of the tourists who visit the coast. Camping here is a genuinely remote experience, and two destinations stand above all others: Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk. This guide covers everything you need to plan a highland camping trip to both.

Highland Camping: What Makes It Different

Camping in Iceland's highlands is a step up in difficulty and preparation from lowland camping. Before you go, understand these key differences:

• F-roads required: Highland roads are designated F-roads, which require a 4WD vehicle with high clearance. Driving a 2WD on an F-road is illegal and dangerous. Many routes involve river crossings.
• No services: There are no petrol stations, supermarkets, or phone signal in the highlands. Carry extra fuel, food, and a satellite communicator or emergency beacon.
• Cold nights: Even in July, highland nights can drop to 0°C or below. A sleeping bag rated to -5°C comfort is the minimum.
• Wind: Highland areas are exposed and wind can be severe. A geodesic or robust dome tent is strongly recommended.
• Access season: Highland roads typically open in late June and close in September, depending on snow and weather conditions. Check road.is before departing.
• Register your trip: Always register your itinerary at safetravel.is before heading into the highlands.

Landmannalaugar: The Rainbow Mountains

Why Landmannalaugar?

Landmannalaugar sits in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve at around 600 metres elevation. It's famous for its extraordinary rhyolite mountains — streaked with red, orange, yellow, green, and purple — and its natural geothermal hot spring where you can bathe after a day's hiking. It's the starting point of the legendary Laugavegur Trail, one of the world's great multi-day hikes.

Getting There

• By 4WD: Take Route F208 from the south or F26 from the north. Both involve river crossings. The drive from Reykjavik takes approximately 3–4 hours.
• By bus: Reykjavik Excursions and Trex operate scheduled highland buses from Reykjavik and Höfn during summer. This is the safest option if you don't have a suitable 4WD.

The Campsite

The Landmannalaugar campsite is managed by the Icelandic Touring Association (Fí). It's a large, well-organised site with:

• Toilets and basic washing facilities
• A cooking hut with gas burners (bring your own pots)
• A warden on site during summer
• The famous natural hot spring pool (free to use)

Booking: Advance booking is essential in July and August. The site fills up fast. Book through the Icelandic Touring Association website.

Cost: Approximately 2,000–2,500 ISK per person per night (€13–17).

Best Hikes from Landmannalaugar

• Laugahraun lava field loop (2–3 hrs): An easy walk through the dramatic lava field right next to the campsite. Perfect for an arrival evening.
• Bláhnjúkur (3–4 hrs): The iconic red-black peak above the campsite. Steep but rewarding — 360° views of the rhyolite mountains.
• Bræðralindir (4–5 hrs): A longer day hike through colourful mountains and past geothermal areas.
• Laugavegur Trail (4 days): The full 55 km trail to Þórsmörk, passing through some of Iceland's most spectacular highland scenery. Huts and campsites along the route.

Landmannalaugar Tips

• Arrive early in the day to secure a good pitch — the site fills from early afternoon in peak season
• The hot spring is best enjoyed in the evening when day-trippers have left
• Weather changes fast — always carry full waterproofs and warm layers even on sunny mornings
• Bring cash or card — the warden collects fees on site

Þórsmörk: Valley of Thor

Why Þórsmörk?

Þórsmörk (pronounced "Thors-mork") is a sheltered valley nestled between three glaciers — Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull. Unlike the exposed highland plateau, Þórsmörk is sheltered and green, with birch forests, wildflowers, and dramatic glacier views. It's the endpoint of the Laugavegur Trail and the starting point of the Fimmvörðuháls pass to Skógar.

Getting There

• By 4WD: Take Route F249. The road involves multiple river crossings, some of which can be deep and fast-flowing. Only attempt in a high-clearance 4WD with experience in river crossings.
• By bus: Strongly recommended. Reykjavik Excursions and Trex run scheduled buses from Reykjavik. The bus uses a specially modified high-clearance vehicle for the river crossings.

The Three Campsites

Þórsmörk has three separate camping areas, each with a different character:

• Húsadalur: The largest and most popular site, with a hut, showers, and a café. Best for those arriving by bus. Great access to the Valahnúkur viewpoint hike.
• Langidalur: A quieter site on the other side of the valley, managed by the Icelandic Touring Association. More basic facilities but a beautiful setting.
• Básar: The most remote of the three, at the western end of the valley. Starting point for the Fimmvörðuháls trail.

Booking: Book in advance for July and August, especially Húsadalur.

Best Hikes from Þórsmörk

• Valahnúkur (1–2 hrs): The most popular hike from Þórsmörk. A steep but short climb to a ridge with panoramic views of the three glaciers. Unmissable.
• Tind (3–4 hrs): A longer ridge walk with even more expansive views. Less crowded than Valahnúkur.
• Fimmvörðuháls Pass (full day or overnight): The dramatic high-level route between Þórsmörk and Skógar, passing between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers and the 2010 eruption craters.
• Laugavegur Trail (4 days, reverse direction): Walk from Þórsmörk to Landmannalaugar — a classic multi-day route.

Þórsmörk Tips

• The river crossings on the F249 are genuinely dangerous — take the bus unless you're very experienced
• Book the Húsadalur campsite well in advance for July and August
• The Valahnúkur hike is best done in the evening when the light is golden and the day-trippers have left
• Bring insect repellent — midges can be present in the sheltered valley

Combining Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk: The Laugavegur Trail

The best way to experience both destinations is to walk the Laugavegur Trail — a 55 km, 4-day trek from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk (or vice versa). The trail passes through some of Iceland's most spectacular highland scenery, with huts and campsites at regular intervals.

Trail highlights: Rhyolite mountains, obsidian lava fields, geothermal areas, glacial rivers, the Emstrur canyon, and the green valley of Þórsmörk.

Booking: Hut and campsite spaces on the Laugavegur Trail must be booked months in advance for July and August. Book through the Icelandic Touring Association (fi.is).

Essential Gear for Highland Camping

Highland camping demands more from your gear than lowland camping. Here's what you need:

• Tent: A geodesic or robust dome tent rated for high winds. Freestanding design essential for rocky highland ground.
• Sleeping bag: Rated to -5°C comfort minimum. Down with hydrophobic treatment or synthetic for wet conditions.
• Sleeping mat: Insulated mat with R-value 4+ to protect against cold ground.
• Waterproofs: Full waterproof jacket and trousers — non-negotiable.
• Layers: Thermal base layer, mid-layer fleece, and insulated jacket.
• Navigation: Offline maps (Maps.me or Gaia GPS), compass, and paper map. No phone signal in the highlands.
• Emergency: Satellite communicator (e.g. Garmin inReach) strongly recommended for multi-day highland trips.

Rent your highland camping gear from Iceland Camping Equipment — we stock everything you need for a Laugavegur Trail or highland camping trip, including wind-rated tents, -5°C sleeping bags, and trekking poles.

Frequently Asked Questions

When do the highland roads open in Iceland?

Highland F-roads typically open in late June, depending on snow conditions. Some years they open earlier, some later. Always check current road conditions at road.is before departing.

Do I need a 4WD to get to Landmannalaugar?

Yes. The F208 road to Landmannalaugar involves river crossings and rough terrain that require a 4WD vehicle with high clearance. Alternatively, take the highland bus from Reykjavik — a safe and convenient option.

How cold does it get at Landmannalaugar at night?

Even in July and August, nights at Landmannalaugar can drop to 0°C to 3°C. A sleeping bag rated to -5°C comfort is recommended. In June or September, temperatures can drop below freezing.

Is the Laugavegur Trail suitable for beginners?

The Laugavegur Trail is a moderate multi-day hike. It's suitable for fit hikers with some experience of multi-day walking, but it's not a beginner trail. River crossings, variable weather, and remote terrain require preparation and the right gear.